The question has often been asked as to what kind of hair can be finger-waved successfully. Some hairdressers believe that all kinds of hair may be so treated—straight, naturally curly, and permanently waved; in fact, any kind of hair except very coarse, thick hair. It has been the author’s experience, however, that fairly straight hair must be slightly inclined to curl; unless there is a slight wave or inclination of a natural wave, however good the following setting or finger-wave may be, it is not possible for the wave to stay in the hair for more than a day or so. Although it’s very rare, occasionally a client with this type of hair will ask for a finger-wave, and in these instances we recommend you try and persuade your client to go for a permanent wave. However, should the hairdresser happen to encounter this type of hair during his routine of work, the use of combs is recommended, by means of which quite a pleasing result can be obtained; but in no circumstances whatsoever should combs be used upon permanently waved hair, as the hardness of the waves obtained through inserting combs will spoil the nicest of coiffures, and the work will thus become considerably depreciated.
A very important point which is often ignored, is the ends; the side-pieces in particular, which are usually left in a clubbed condition, and therefore are never finished gracefully and neatly. The ends, or side-pieces—in fact, any of the hair on the head—needs to be carefully thinned or tapered. It will then be noticed that the ends will curl much more easily, and which then will mould themselves nicely to the head, thus keeping their curl much longer. This is vitally important factor, and finger-waving should never be started until the ends are properly tapered or thinned.
Clean hair is much easier to work with, Dirty hair is harder to set and also takes much longer to dry. After the shampoo, rub the hair well with a rough towel, so that the hair remains only just damp. This is important, not only from the setting point of view, but also for the client’s comfort. If the hair is made too wet, it is likely to drip down the client’s face and neck, which is obviously something to be avoided. After adjusting the parting, sprinkle or spray the hair with a good setting lotion. Some operators are of the opinion that the lotion helps to set the hair better and more easily. This is entirely erroneous; its main advantage is that the finger waves become dry much more quickly and provides at the same time the advantage of an additional sale.